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Removing Brake Calipers and Changing Rotors
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I recently upgraded my stock rotors and pads to a set of UUC cross drilled & slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads. They were purchased from Lindsay Cadillac. First, let's take a look at the stock rotors and the UUC ones:

In this guide, I will start by changing the front rotors first, then the rears. My pictures will show me doing the left front, then the left rear. The first thing you need to do is to jack the front of the car as high as possible and put it up on jack stands. It is very important to get the car raised as high as possible, or it will be very difficult to remove the caliper bracket bolts later on. As well, when lifting a car, it is extremely important to use jack stands. After removing the wheel and tire, we need to remove the caliper. The caliper is mounted to the caliper bracket by 2 caliper pin bolts (They are labeled 1 & 2):

Remove the caliper pin bolts (They are torqued to 45ft-lbs from factory, or should be):

After the caliper pin bolts are out, you can remove the caliper from the caliper bracket. Secure the caliper safely:

Next we have to remove the caliper bracket. It is held in place by 2 bolts, which are tightened to 96ft-lbs. Using an 18mm socket with a torque wrench, remove the caliper bracket bolts. If the car was not raised high enough, it would not be possible to use the torque wrench, as you will see in the second picture below:

There is a torx screw holding the rotor in place. Use a T27 bit with a ratchet to remove it. Do NOT use an allen key! If you have difficulty removing the screw, spray some 'liquid wrench' on it and wait a little. Use something a bar to stop the rotor from spinning when you are trying to loosen the screw:

Once the screw is out, the rotor can be removed. Clean the hub with a wire brush to remove any rust; you want a nice smooth surface for when you put the new rotor on.

Put the new front rotor on, and remember to put the torx screw back on! It does not need to be extremely tight.

Put the caliper bracket back on and torque the caliper bracket bolts to 96ft-lbs. If you are putting on new brake pads, now is the time to put them on. Then reinstall the caliper and torque the caliper pin bolts to 45ft-lbs. These are the factory specs.

Put your wheel and tire back on and do the other side.

Moving on to the rear! Again, jack the car up as high as possible, and place it on jack stands. Remove the caliper by removing the 2 caliper pin bolts. The rears are tightened to 44ft-lbs from factory. Once again, secure the caliper. Next, shift away this plastic mud flap. It is held in place by 3 plastic push pins. Remove the inner 2, and then you can swivel it out of the way:

With the plastic mud flap out of the way, there is more room for the torque wrench. Using the torque wrench, remove the caliper bracket bolts. If there still isn't enough room, using the jack, raise the rear suspension like we did. The rears are tightened to 88ft-lbs from factory. Once the caliper bracket bolts are off, remove the caliper bracket. Just like the front, unscrew the torx screw and remove the rotor. You should be looking at this:

When putting the new rotor on, be careful with the parking brake shoe. Try to put the rotor in as smooth as possible. If you put the rotor in and it feels like it is stuck on, do NOT try to remove it. If it seems like the parking brake is dragging the rotor, that will take care of itself after you drive the car and the parking brake re-adjusts. Tighten the torx screw. Put the caliper bracket back on and tighten the caliper bracket bolts to 88ft-lbs. If you are putting in new brake pads, do this now. Then reinstall the caliper and tighten the caliper pin bolts to 44ft-lbs.

Put your wheels and tires back on and do the other side.

Follow the proper bed in procedures for the pads and rotors. If you installed the UUC cross drilled & slotted rotors, you now have one of the coolest looking rotors and excellent stopping power.